Pillar

High brightness is a specification, not an adjective

Every supplier calls their panel bright. The number that matters is measured in nits, and the number you need is decided by the light behind the viewer, not by the size of the screen.

A display fails in daylight for one reason: the light falling on the glass is stronger than the light coming out of it. A television in a living room puts out 300 to 500 nit and looks perfect, because the room is dim. Put that same panel behind a shop window at noon and it turns into a mirror.

High-brightness LCD solves this by pushing far more light through the panel — up to 5000 nit in our line — and by changing the panel structure so that the extra light survives the trip. Brightness alone is not enough, which is the part most specifications leave out.

Two identical LCD advertising displays standing side by side in a bright sunlit room showing the same photo, left screen
The same content on a normal panel and on a high-brightness panel, photographed together.
 Rule of thumb

How much brightness each environment needs

Indoor, away from windows700 – 1000 nitA normal commercial panel is adequate here.
Indoor, bright lobby or atrium1500 – 2500 nitReflected daylight is the problem, not direct sun.
Behind glass, street-facing2500 – 4000 nitOur Window Display line starts here.
Behind glass, direct sun4000 – 5000 nit55 ″ FHD reaches 5000 nit.
Fully outdoors4000 cd/m² + IP65Sealing and climate control matter as much as the nits.

Guidance, not a guarantee — reflectivity, mounting angle and glass coating all move the number.

What high brightness costs you if you get it wrong

Too little brightness

The display is unreadable for the hours that matter most — the hours the street is busy.

Too much brightness indoors

You pay for power and cooling you do not need, and the panel ages faster than the installation.

Brightness without the right polarizer

The picture is bright and invisible to anyone wearing polarized sunglasses.

Brightness without heat management

A bright panel behind glass runs hot. Without a temperature sensor and a fan, it throttles or it darkens.

 FHD line-up

Every panel we build, by brightness

All panels are IPS & Hi-Tni and mount in both landscape and portrait.

ResolutionBrightnessBLUPolarizer
29 ″ bar1920 × 5401200 nitEdgeNormal
29 ″ bar1920 × 5402500 nitDirectNormal
32 ″1920 × 10801000 nitEdgeNormal
32 ″1920 × 10801500 nitEdgeNormal
32 ″1920 × 10802000 nitEdgeNormal
32 ″1920 × 10802500 nitDirectNormal
32 ″1920 × 10803000 nitDirectNormal
43 ″1920 × 10801000 nitEdgeNormal
43 ″1920 × 10802500 nitDirectNormal
43 ″1920 × 10803000 nitDirectNormal
55 ″1920 × 10802500 nitEdgeQWP
55 ″1920 × 10804000 nitDirectQWP
55 ″1920 × 10805000 nitDirectQWP

UHD panels

ResolutionBrightnessBLUPolarizer
43 ″3840 × 21601000 nitEdgeNormal
43 ″3840 × 21602000 nitDirectNormal
49 ″3840 × 21602500 nitDirectNormal
55 ″3840 × 21601000 nitEdgeNormal
55 ″3840 × 21602500 nitDirectNormal
65 ″3840 × 21602500 nitDirectNormal
75 ″3840 × 21603000 nitDirectQWP

High brightness, answered

One nit is one candela per square metre — the light a display emits per unit of area. A phone in sunlight mode is about 1000 nit; our brightest panel is five times that.
Yes, exactly the same unit. Outdoor specifications tend to use cd/m², panel specifications tend to use nit.
Running any panel at its ceiling all day shortens it. That is why our window displays carry a light sensor: brightness follows the ambient level instead of sitting at maximum.
Edge-lit backlights run out of headroom and uniformity at high output. Direct backlights sit behind the panel and can push more light more evenly.

Not sure which number applies to your site?

Send us the location and the mounting direction. We have specified panels for shop windows, bus shelters and stadium concourses and the answer is rarely the obvious one.

Request a quote

Tell us where the display goes and how much light it has to fight. That is the part that decides the panel.